Cill Chainnigh
(Kilkenny)
One fabulous thing about the attractions of Kilkenny is that you can generally take the "self-guided tour". That is, pay the entry fee and take as long as you like to walk through the building and grounds. This lets you absorb a lot more of the local culture and history. Many sites have Office of Public Works (OPW) people keeping an eye on the historical treasures on hand and we've found all of these folks to be both friendly and very knowledgeable.
Kilkenny Castle
Our first visit was to Kilkenny Castle, which stands at a strategic location where the River Nore bends. Over its eight centuries many alterations and additions have been made, making the castle a complex of architectural styles. The original Aglo-Norman stone castle was built during the first decade of the 13th century. The castle later became the principal Irish residence of the powerful Butler family for almost 600 years. Butler ownership began when James (c. 1360-1405), 3rd Earl of Ormond bought the castle in 1391 and lasted until 1967 when Arthur, 6th Marquess of Ormonde, presented it to Kilkenny for a token payment of £50. The OPW has lovingly and painstakingly restored the castle. We spent 2 1/2 hours exploring Kilkenny Castle and another hour walking its beautiful park.
An added bonus was to learn about and see the actual Morpeth Roll, a document over 400 metres long and containing over 160,000 signatures presented to Lord Morpeth, a pro-Irish British administrator, at the urging of Catholic Emancipator Daniel O'Connell. In addition to its intrinsic historic value, that roll has become an invaluable research tool for genealogists and is available through Ancestry.com.
Kilkenny Design Center (and the fabulous snack)
Across the street from Kilkenny Castle lie the old castle stables and the Butler family dower house. The stables now house Kilkenny Design Center and the shops of traditional Irish craft artisans (silver and gold smiths, potters, painters, and weavers.) The Dower house currently houses...us. Now called Butler House, this beautiful old structure rents out 13 spacious en-suite guest rooms that overlook a lovely and peaceful walled garden. Hurrah! (All you Downton Abbey fans think of Maggie Smith gliding around her tiny little home across from the DA pile.)
Another aspect of Kilkenny Design Center is a lovely tea room where we have breakfast each morning and afternoon snacks. Today's "snack" was lemon sponge cake and tea and chocolate cake with clotted cream topping and an O'Hara double stout. Hurrah!! Guess who ordered each pair.
St. Canice's Cathedral
Kate prowled the Cathedral's graveyard snapping pictures of flowers and grave markers; Mike climbed the 100 steps to the top of the Round Tower for great views of the city and grounds below.
The Black Abbey
We also walked a few blocks to the Black Abbey, a former Dominican monastary that played a significant role both in the history of the city and in the back and forth changes resulting from the contentious relations of Catholicism and Protestantism. We had a delightful conversation with a local resident, Kate, who has a remarkable resemblance to Mike's sister Debbie.
The Roth House
This well-preserved 16th century Tudor house was built just 100 years after Christopher Columbus made his celebrated arrival in Puerto Rico. The house and gardens give a glimpse of life in Kilkenny in Elizabethan times. It is also the Co. Kilkenny genealogical center. One fascinating discovery was a small display from the first successful "manned flight" performed in Ireland...in 1857, about 50 years before the Wright Brother's first flight in North Carolina.
No comments:
Post a Comment